I Lied: Retro Butterick 5605, Version 2

Hey, Hey!

I’m back in the sewing game and have been immersed in creating another retro Butterick pattern. A few posts back, I blogged about my April fabric haul, and I really wanted to use my Alison Glass purple striped fabric:

I just had to show this embroidery thread that I picked up while shopping at Joann Crafts. I didn’t end up using it for sewing my hems, but I bought it anyway because of how pretty it is and how it matches all the colors of the stripes almost EXACTLY. I’ll think of some use for it, eventually…

So I’ve got the stripes. Now I need the dress.

This is where I lied.

I went through my pattern stash and tried picking a dress pattern that would go well with my fabric. Well, lo and behold, I couldn’t escape the fact that the best dress pattern to use that would really make my stripes pop was the Butterick 5605! Noooo!! I really did not want to use this pattern again. (For reasons why, refer to my last post.)

I resisted and debated over other choices, but quite honestly, B5605 truly was the best one out of all my other dress patterns. I had seen and admired the way another sewist made the bodice of her dress and thought it was a clever way of positioning her stripes and wanted to try it out as well. So I (grudgingly) went ahead and cut out all the pieces for the dress and tried to get in the mindset that:

1. Practice makes perfect. I’m getting more skilled in sewing gussets (Ugh. Gussets!)
2. I also get more practice with pattern matching, which is something I’ve been meaning to do anyway.
3. My finished dress is going to look great!!

Well, like the last time, gusset sewing continues to be a pain in the butt. I knew this time around to use the handy tip of sewing them in three parts, rather than in one go, which makes the process much easier. But the fact that I needed to do this process eight times for the bodice and bodice lining did not make sewing this dress any more enjoyable. Although pattern matching the stripes was a little bit daunting, it was also kind of fun. I actually enjoyed the challenge of getting each stripe to line up perfectly (Which they did, to my delight!)

I did make a few changes for this version:

• I chose not to have the open button/bow detail on the back that the B5605 is known for. Although it’s a cute detail, I really wanted a more basic back this time around, so for the back bodice piece, I re-traced it onto an old piece of wrapping paper, closed up the open back, but followed the back neckline so it would resemble a standard back bodice piece.

• I made the lined bodice with white muslin. I wanted to have some extra fabric on hand to either make a top or a skirt, so I did not make the lining bodice with the stripes. I was unsure whether or not muslin would make a good lining, but I read that it is actually quite nice and breathable, and I also wanted to use it to get comfortable sewing the gussets again before I sewed the gussets onto the striped pieces. It worked out fine in the end.

• Like my last make, I replaced the pleated skirt with a gathered one. For some reason or another, I ended up using a different skirt pattern than the last one, and because the skirt was sewn together differently, I wasn’t able to put in the pockets like last time. Bummer!! Technically, though, I can still put pockets in later on so it’s not a huge deal, but it would have been nice to have them in from the start. My bad…

• I shortened the sleeves and bottom hem.

And here she is, my beautiful, purple striped B5605!

Funny how this dress totally transforms in different lighting conditions. In reality it’s a little more warmer in tone. Or it could just be my phone too 🤷🏻‍♀️

Isn’t she just so pretty? Sewing with this fabric was pleasant. My sewing machine glided through the fabric nice and easy. I was nervous when it got down to sewing the stripes. I took extra care to line them up EXACTLY and went pin crazy! I was pretty proud of myself seeing the end result. I gotta say, the chevron front, mixed with the horizontal side stripes on the bodice really make this dress just a little more special than if they were all facing one direction, don’t you think? I debated whether to make the skirt stripe pattern similar with the chevron, but chose to keep it simple in the end with vertical stripes.

This is what I mean about color shifting with this dress. The first picture above was taken right before this one, but in this photo, the dress was hung up where the light from the window shines on it, as opposed to the photo with the dress on the floor with the fluorescent kitchen light shining down on it. The difference in tone is very dramatic…

The feel of the fabric is really nice and light against the skin. This will be a perfect Summer dress to wear when the weather starts heating up. So far, where I live, we’ve been having a lot of May Gray days and it’s gotten cold enough here that I’ve been in living in sweaters, sweats, jeans, and jackets for the past couple of weeks! I’m liking the drape on this dress as well. Since this is your classic fit-and-flare, in the photos below, I’m wearing my petticoat underneath. But like my other B5605, it totally works fine on it’s own without one. I actually really like the skirt with less poof. It makes the dress more casual and easy-breezy. I can put on some Chucks or Vans and go walking around town with the Hubs. Here is the dress on, paired with my black Vans. I can see this with some cool purple Chucks too!

I took these photos in the afternoon, with natural sunlight streaming in through all my windows. I wish I had a fancy camera to take pictures with, but for now, my iPhone SE will have to do. This is a more accurate picture of how the colors of this fabric look in person. The teal really make the stripes pop, I think.

It’s probably harder to tell in these photos, but in this pic I am not wearing a petticoat underneath the skirt. In the photo above this one, I’m wearing one. There is a slight difference in how the skirt appears fuller in the other pic. The feel is also obviously different. In this photo where I’m not wearing a petticoat, you can tell the skirt doesn’t fan out as much, but it still has some nice flare to it. It’s also great for when you are in the sweltering heat and want a nice breeze where the sun don’t shine. Who wants to wear a petticoat in the Summer, anyway?!

I chose to cut a standard back bodice piece as opposed to the open button/bow back of the original B5605. I wanted the stripes to take center stage this time. I’m happy that I was able to get the stripes lined up nice and straight like the front!

Here’s a closer view of the chevron stripe detail in the bodice. Getting these results involve a little bit of tweaking when you are cutting out your pattern pieces. You have to lay your pattern at an angle and cut against the grain of your fabric. I found some really great tutorials for sewing with stripes on YouTube!

From start to finish, it took me about two weeks to sew this dress. Yah, I totally took my time with this one! It took so long partly because I was just really busy with other things. The month of May has always been one of the most busiest on my calendar. Mother’s Day, mine and Hubs wedding anniversary, and my son’s birthday all take place one after the other all throughout the month, along with more birthdays and anniversaries sprinkled in between! It’s madness, really. Sewing also took a long time simply because I made it a point to work slowly. I did not want a repeat moment of stress like last time!

So there goes another Butterick 5605 I can add to my list! I can’t believe I made this dress again. Sorry I was such a liar before. Forgive me?

xoxo,